Monday, February 24, 2014

Smith Rock Zebra/Zion


As we headed down to Smith the excitement was overwhelming, my girlfriend Deni and I had plans to climb, ski, camp out under the stars, and have an absolutely amazing weekend void of homework, responsibility and the incessant buzzing of smartphones.

Our first sight of Smith's famous walls Saturday morning sent us buzzing around camp with excitement, preparing for a big day of climbing. Our goal was to climb Zebra/Zion, a big four pitch trad and sport route on Morning Glory Wall.

Hello Smith Rocks


Soon we were at the base of the route, looking up I was slightly intimidated having not been on real rock since October I knew I would be a little rusty and didn't know what to expect from the 5.10a/b crux pitch.


Morning glory wall 

Deni quickly dispatched the first pitch, a 5.10b sport climb called Gumby. I followed up the tiny crimps and edges into huge huecos and then joined her at the hanging belay.

At the Belay

After a brief visit :) I racked up and climbed up to the crux, plugged in a few cams and powered through the crux, then the subsequent steep hand crack to a perfect belay ledge. 


Crux pitch stoke! 
After the crux pitch.... an airy traverse....an epic juggy flake you want to last forever....



Thumbs up!



Enjoying the day!

Look no hands! 

Steps from the top! 

"following the paths others have laid, puts you in same destination as all those before you". This thought surfaced in my mind as I floated along the airy traverse of Zebra/Zion. A fragment of a novel or something I read at some point in the past. I cautiously settled into the first holds of the traverse, my left hand found a small pocket to put two fingers in and my right hand crimped onto a sharp end of rock. I looked down in search of foot holds to support my weight on, finally I found a pair of tiny edges just big enough for the soft rubber of my shoes to stick on. Between my feet tiny people milled around two hundred feet below, getting ready to climb or taking pictures of the incredible rock features, undoubtedly I was nothing but a small speck. Secretly I hoped somebody was watching with awe and fear, cheering me on and finding inspiration in my bravery.

A few minutes later I was through the traverse and climbing quickly up a beautifully featured slab to the next belay station. Leaving the security of a beautiful crack for the unprotected traverse was terrifying and awesome, falling would have been sketch, but years of climbing and experienced urged me to satisfy my craving for adventure in the high places of the world. Long ago I choose a path, dedicating myself to climbing and the mountains, this epic traverse was part of that path.

Good bye Smith Rocks....until another day

Friday, January 31, 2014

Hyalite Ice!

Eiji and I did our usual thing; a lot of rad climbing in a very short amount of time. We arrived in Bozeman late Thursday night and left early Sunday morning to be back for work and family commitments. We climbed some classics under spectacular skies and perfect temperatures. Honestly life for an ice climber couldn't have been better!

One of my good High School friends Kelsey O'keefe and her boyfriend Travis warmly welcomed us into their cozy house, saving us from a couple of cold nights camping at the trail head! Kelsey definitely carries on the unmatched hospitality of the O'keefe family!

Eiji climbing one of the hard lines on Mummy Cooler 2

Splitter weather

Lance leading on Mummy Cooler 2

Lance still on lead


Sceptor in super phat condition

Gear explosion in Kelsey's living room

Badass

Sceptor and Mummy from across the valley

Hmm...how long will it take me to place a screw with my left hand?

Eiji tackling Elevator Shaft WI4 and super rad

Eiji with the send!



Messing around. Stoke was super high!

TR at Genesis 1


Puuuuummmppppedddd!