Colorado Ice Climbing

We've all had somebody tell us "things will work out for the best." We appreciate the comment and move on to our next project. Usually these remarks fade into the recesses of our minds until we've bash our head against the wall long enough and come to some epiphany. I realized this during my stay in Colorado, ice climbing and rock climbing with my friends John and Deb who I met thousands of miles away over the summer on Denali's West Buttress.

John and I at 14k on Denali in his team's group shelter

I had been to the summit of Denali before, but was drawn back for another go. I was hanging around 14k camp after a long trip up to 19k the day before, when I ran into the six Coloradans. The weather wasn't really epic, just enough to be....."obnoxious".  With none of my original teammates and only a few days left of food, I headed home. John and his team stuck it out and topped out! Congratulations to them! 

Returning home from Denali without much to show for it, is quite boring. My failure quickly turned to gas and fueled a fiery summer in the mountains. Even before flying off the glacier I knew I wanted to hang out with these people down in Colorado, a state I'd never been to. 

Dozens of emails, and six months later, I was on my way! Our aim was to climb ice and ice climb, we did! 

I'll go day by day, mostly with pictures and words when necessary.  

The Offwidth above

Day One. I arrived mid morning, the day was warm and we were stoked! John and I head up to Eldorado Canyon, onsighted an awesome two pitches. The second pitch threw all it had at us; offwidths, fist jams, finger cracks and some cool face climbing. We identified it later as Sooberb 5.8+ on the West ridge climbing area.

Lance 

Deb showing the boys how its done

 Day Two. Top roped ice climbing at a local waterfall, usually its super fat. We made do with this fun stuff instead!

Day Three. We headed up to Rocky Mountain National Park. After a long approach we found West gully in awesome shape and went to work. We got up one long cold pitch of brittle ice, enough to get our money's worth. It had been snowing all day, and would definitely add time to our already long deproach.




West gully above Black lake

Grace Falls

Day Four. We made the long approach into Grace Falls. We saw it but didn't have the time or energy to finish the approach or do any climbing. We had some awesome views of Notchtop

Notchtop

Day Five and Six we climbed in Vail! Pitkin falls and Pumphouse falls

John leading Pitkin Falls WI4

My turn to lead on Pumphouse falls WI3

Wow what a trip! Pretty much a dream come true for a young aspiring alpinist and a great first impression of Colorado. Out in the Cascades I've had my share of suffering and can suffer through anything, but this was finally a chance to practice all the technical ice climbing things I can usually only read about in Seattle.

All in all things "work out for the best" I didn't summit Denali this year. Instead I met some awesome people and had a great trip to Colorado.

Special thanks to Deb and John for taking me in like I was family! Can't wait until next time!

West Coast Trail, Vancouver Island B.C.

Mike heading out from Tsusiat Falls on our fourth day

Mike, Dom and myself arrived at the Bamfield Ranger station for our trail orientation, thoroughly awakened after a long bumpy, bone jarring bus ride along endless logging roads from Port Renfrew. My Uncle being the "brains" of the trek soaked up the orientation and asked detailed questions concerning tides that would affect our hike. A continued theme throughout the adventure. Dom and I being the "muscles" looked eagerly over the free map Parks Canada provides. Reading the intimidating quotes like "100 injured hikers are evacuated every season" and "tsunamis rare but dangerous" only got our hearts beating a little faster and made our time of departure even far away! 

We departed the outrageously priced Pachena Bay campground the following morning and our West Coast experience got off to a quick start with this lovely sign.

 

We're a stubborn bunch. So we took the ladders any way! 

The first of a "bajillion" ladders

About 17km later we arrived at Tscowis creek where we decided to make camp and enjoy its lovely water fall and some prime real estate. It seemed that most of the northbound hikers camped at Michigan or Darling creek to make their last day shorter which must finish at 1pm to catch the bus back to Port Renfrew. 

Yep! there is the lovely water fall

"prime real estate" means a convenient table and chairs! what more could you want! 

A backpacking trip isn't complete without some pancakes! 

Day 2 we headed out early to get a prime campsite at Tsusiat falls our next campsite, northbound hikers passing us on our way south had  great things to say about the falls. Indeed it was quite nice with a big water fall and an opportunity to cool off! The trail this day was a bit of woods, and a bit of beach with a long cable car crossing across the Klanawa river. 

I had to make sure it was real....

Son and Father team pulling up to the docking station

Along the trail 

The falls in all their glory! 

A highlight of day 3 included a fresh feast of fresh crab! yea check it out at the Nitinat Narrows crossing  about 33km from the trail head and look for Leon Edgar our chef and ferry captain. A nice respite from slippery boardwalks, "perma-mud" bogs, and soft sandy beaches. Later that day some shenanigans at Cribs creek camp entertained us until a stunning sunset gave away to some spectacular stars. 

Joy.

Cheewat river bridge a mandatory picture

Shenanigans!

Amazing sunset!!!!

From Cribs creek on Day 4 we hiked to Walbran Creek another must visit campsite! A fairly uneventful 10km full of the trails scenic views and a majestic light house and don't forget a visit to Chez Moniques little bbq to get your $20 "fully loaded" burger!

Chez Moniques

Beachwhacking

Carmanah Lighthouse

From Walbran the trail becomes ridiculous. This is where it earns the reputation as being one of the roughest trails in North America. Roots, mud, fallen trees and rotten boardwalks plus dense vegetation come together in an effort to mentally, emotionally and physically destroy the cheerful hiker. Honestly its bad, carry a light pack, bring trekking poles and get an early start, I've been hiking and climbing for years and found this stretch to be fairly debilitating. We ended the day at Camper bay exhausted and ready for some relaxation. 

Head band time!!!

Bridge across Logan Creek!

Ladders....endless ladders!!! 

Apparently we weren't alone in our misery

Over or under?

ARRGGHHH! 

Our last day we departed Camper bay at the absurd hour of 5am so Dom and I could squeeze around Owens Point before an early high tide closed off the wondrous sea caves of this stretch. Our first 3km we hiked on the same miserable trail in the DARK! (I don't recommend this!) At sunrise we arrived on the beach described as a moonscape by guide books dodging over surge channels and some spots so slippery we hilariously slipped across. The sea caves at Owens point truly lived up to their surreal reputation and provoked some thoughts about the power of the ocean and tide. The point to Thrashers cove and out to Gordon river passed by without event, only a few good wipeouts on roots or boulders. 

Heading towards Owens Point

Moooooonscape!!!

First of the big caves too bad we couldn't explore this one!

Can't jump this surge channel!!!

Dom first!!!

Behind the sea caves at Owens Point

Another shot looking out of the cave

Come at me bro!!!

Yay!!!!! we made it!! last ferry crossing on the Gordon River

Central Mowich Face Mt. Rainier

Anastasia on the approach

After a long car shuttle between Paradise and Mowich lake (2.5 hours) and a stop at the Ranger Station to pick up our back country permits Anastasia and I were finally on the trail to Spray park around 10:45 

We passed through Spray park and found the climbers trail up to Observation Rock. 

Spray Park 

Observation Rock obscured by the intermittent cloud cover

First Camp at 8600' on Ptarmigan Ridge, Just above Observation Rock

View from Camp 

The next day from camp we descended horrible scree fields down to the Mowich Glacier. Dropping around 8500' was a bad idea, better to use a much shorter descent to a snow finger from the ridge around 8200'. It is somewhat confusing because there is an awesome bivy shelter at 8600' quite a distance from the best drop spot. 

Endless scree to battle with. We both took some tumbles but otherwise made it down alive

Finally on snow we started up the Mowich towards potential bivy sites at 9200' and hopefully another one just below the headwall around 10,000 ft. 

Gnarly

More Gnarly

North Mowich Headwall icefall was totally out of shape

There didn't seem to be many bivy options at 9200' and we wanted to try to get higher that day anyway so we continued up to where hopefully a higher camp might be. We finally found a fairly descent campsite just below the headwall near 10,000 feet. It was a bit sketchy. Lets just say we wore our helmets our entire stay at camp. 

While camped we spent plenty of time trying to figure out our route the next morning. 

The hourglass had no snow or ice, climbing the shitty volcanic rock may have been possible for a couple really ballsy dudes. 

Summit morning we slept in a bit waiting for some extra light since our route had some unknown challenges ahead. We departed around 5am and made a descent down to a snow ramp which would let us on to the Mowich Face since the Headwall was definitely out of shape. 

Snow ramp to gain the central Mowich face on the right below the ice fall

Some avy debris to cross and then a massive shrund. We crossed on the right side on the scree.

Above the shrund using an ice ledge below the rocks for an easy traverse

Spectacular shadow of Mt. Rainier

Arch buttress at about 12,500 feet 

Climbing the Face was super fun! Steep, hard and sustained

Exited at the top right under the thin rock band onto a steep snow arete 

Anastasia

Top of the Edmunds Headwall which I skied a couple of weeks earlier. Definitely out of shape now

Anastasia in her misery atop the Mowich Face

The site of our unplanned bivy. In the saddle between Liberty Cap and the summit. By some miracle there was no tent crushing winds typical of the Mt. Rainier's summit

Finally the Morning of day four we arrive at the summit! Looking across the crater at our descent

Summit shot 

Summit Register! This one is for you grandma! 

Big crevasse descending the Disappointment Cleaver with Mt. Adams in the back

Descending the Cleaver

This kid is 6 years old!!!!!! Yea he was going for the summit the next day

PB&J sandwiches! amazing! 

We finally made to the ranger station at Camp Muir and checked in with the Rangers Arlington and Will who had some concerns for us as we were a day overdue on a very hard and remote route. Luckily they hadn't initiated any big rescue efforts yet despite a my dad filing a missing persons report for me and the slightly foggy day on Thursday. 

It was a great climb and a good end to an awesome season on Rainier for myself. This was my third trip on Rainier this summer but each one had unique challenges and different partners making for a very complete season. I just finished a relaxing and enjoyable backpacking trip with my mom and now I'm off to the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island with my Uncle and Cousin! Pretty stoked for that, don't worry I'll post it up on here too! From there I spend a week fishing out of Port Renfrew and then straight to Chile with my girlfriend Victoria who plans to introduce me to all her family, take me skiing and give me a small taste of such a fantastic and diverse country!!!