Anastasia on the approach
After a long car shuttle between Paradise and Mowich lake (2.5 hours) and a stop at the Ranger Station to pick up our back country permits Anastasia and I were finally on the trail to Spray park around 10:45
We passed through Spray park and found the climbers trail up to Observation Rock.
Spray Park
Observation Rock obscured by the intermittent cloud cover
First Camp at 8600' on Ptarmigan Ridge, Just above Observation Rock
View from Camp
The next day from camp we descended horrible scree fields down to the Mowich Glacier. Dropping around 8500' was a bad idea, better to use a much shorter descent to a snow finger from the ridge around 8200'. It is somewhat confusing because there is an awesome bivy shelter at 8600' quite a distance from the best drop spot.
Endless scree to battle with. We both took some tumbles but otherwise made it down alive
Finally on snow we started up the Mowich towards potential bivy sites at 9200' and hopefully another one just below the headwall around 10,000 ft.
Gnarly
More Gnarly
North Mowich Headwall icefall was totally out of shape
There didn't seem to be many bivy options at 9200' and we wanted to try to get higher that day anyway so we continued up to where hopefully a higher camp might be. We finally found a fairly descent campsite just below the headwall near 10,000 feet. It was a bit sketchy. Lets just say we wore our helmets our entire stay at camp.
While camped we spent plenty of time trying to figure out our route the next morning.
The hourglass had no snow or ice, climbing the shitty volcanic rock may have been possible for a couple really ballsy dudes.
Summit morning we slept in a bit waiting for some extra light since our route had some unknown challenges ahead. We departed around 5am and made a descent down to a snow ramp which would let us on to the Mowich Face since the Headwall was definitely out of shape.
Snow ramp to gain the central Mowich face on the right below the ice fall
Some avy debris to cross and then a massive shrund. We crossed on the right side on the scree.
Above the shrund using an ice ledge below the rocks for an easy traverse
Spectacular shadow of Mt. Rainier
Arch buttress at about 12,500 feet
Climbing the Face was super fun! Steep, hard and sustained
Exited at the top right under the thin rock band onto a steep snow arete
Anastasia
Top of the Edmunds Headwall which I skied a couple of weeks earlier. Definitely out of shape now
Anastasia in her misery atop the Mowich Face
The site of our unplanned bivy. In the saddle between Liberty Cap and the summit. By some miracle there was no tent crushing winds typical of the Mt. Rainier's summit
Finally the Morning of day four we arrive at the summit! Looking across the crater at our descent
Summit shot
Summit Register! This one is for you grandma!
Big crevasse descending the Disappointment Cleaver with Mt. Adams in the back
Descending the Cleaver
This kid is 6 years old!!!!!! Yea he was going for the summit the next day
PB&J sandwiches! amazing!
We finally made to the ranger station at Camp Muir and checked in with the Rangers Arlington and Will who had some concerns for us as we were a day overdue on a very hard and remote route. Luckily they hadn't initiated any big rescue efforts yet despite a my dad filing a missing persons report for me and the slightly foggy day on Thursday.
It was a great climb and a good end to an awesome season on Rainier for myself. This was my third trip on Rainier this summer but each one had unique challenges and different partners making for a very complete season. I just finished a relaxing and enjoyable backpacking trip with my mom and now I'm off to the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island with my Uncle and Cousin! Pretty stoked for that, don't worry I'll post it up on here too! From there I spend a week fishing out of Port Renfrew and then straight to Chile with my girlfriend Victoria who plans to introduce me to all her family, take me skiing and give me a small taste of such a fantastic and diverse country!!!
