A week ago on New Year's Eve day Michael and I climbed Chair Peak. Usually a simple and straight forward ice climb on the North Face, we could be on the summit in no time and the clear day would reveal the frosty jewels of the mighty Cascade Range. We found the Alpental trail head buzzing with skiers prepping for what looked like another epic day after the big powder dump a couple days prior which was then preserved by cold stable temps and clear skies. Conditions were obviously prime for skiing, but we were determined to climb something in the weather window.
We cruised the approach despite heavy thick fog, just above Source lake we broke through and caught our first glimpse of Chair. The NE buttress route definitely looked thin, with lots of snow, but probably climbable with some creativity.
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| NE buttress Chair Peak |
We followed a sweet boot/skin track up to the saddle below the NE buttress. Once below the North face we picked our line and donned our gear: Crampons, helmets, tools, harnesses, slings, cams, screws and other implements of torture. We quickly found the first of many obstacles to be overcome.
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| Dang Bergschrund...... |
We traversed left to get around the shrund and traversed back to the base of our route. I decided to give the first pitch a shot, about halfway up I was sick of the crappy ice covered sugar snow and the pathetic offerings of our ice screws, pulling over a certain pesky bulge was not happening for me. I decided to down climb from there and see if Michael wanted to give it a shot. Thankfully I had actually practiced down climbing water ice in Colorado and steadily made headway down to the belay. Sure enough Micheal was ready. We swapped leads and gear. Michael flew up to the bulge, stood puzzled for a moment but overcame it and soon I was up the pitch thanking him for the belay.
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| Leading out the second pitch |
Hoping I could finish a pitch I led out the second. Up some more crappy ice, across a gully full of stable but deep snow, then over to a very cozy tree well belay. From the trees Michael led up through the right hand gully around a corner and then straight up another gully, it looked like we could actually get some decent protection by slinging trees. Later I learned the left hand gully is the actual route and more direct, but it looked pretty intimidating in the current conditions.
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| Whoa what is this? Decent pro! Woo! |
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| Michael leading pitch 3 |
We simuled up to a decent belay where we had two camalots for protection. Michael made a sketchy traverse over to a saddle just below the summit. At this point we were be-nighted! yes be-nighted on Chair peak we were.
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| At least we had a nice sunset! |
I led the next pitch up a short and steep rock corner. I managed to put in two camalots. I hooked and scraped with desperation finally overcoming the crux and crawling to the summit. I collapsed in the dark and luckily found a sweet crack in what I hoped was more than a big boulder. I where I dropped in a cam and went to work belaying up Michael.
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| Just before the rock corner and last pitch to the top |
What a way to finish out the year!
